General Advice

Pot care and planting

Dig a hole in your prepared soil that is twice the size of the pot. You can add a little compost to the hole before planting if you have it - this is recommended for plants that will grow fruits, in particular. After a brief watering, use the fingers of your non dominant hand to create a ‘net’ over the top of each pot, with the plant poking through. Turn the pot upside down and tap firmly on the bottom of the pot, until you feel the weight of the soil drop into your hand. Don’t pull on the plant to remove it from the pot. Some squeezing and gentle shaking of the pot may help, if the plant is hard to release.

When you first get your plants home, water them no more than once per day, until each pot starts to drip from the bottom. Overwatering can leach the nutrients from your soil, affecting the health of the plants, while underwatering causes some vegetables to go to seed early. Potted vegetables should never sit in a dish of water or on a surface that doesn't let all of the water drain out - you want to allow the surface soil to become lighter and drier before watering again, without letting the soil underneath dry out completely.

Companion planting overview

This pack is super easy to companion plant, and is the easiest one to make into a pot garden! Everything has similar requirements, and beneficial relationships exist between each vegetable and almost all of the others, so they should fit together in a relatively small space to create a really pretty and productive little patch! Use a small bed or a collection of large pots equal to 1-2 square metres, that gets shade for about half of the day - so near to an east or west facing wall. Firstly, identify the end of this area that gets shady first - it might take you 24 hours or more to complete this stage of the process. You want to plant the majority of your greens here, because they'll be easier to harvest at the end of the day with a bit of relief from the sun earlier on, while you can take advantage of the extra sunny end to grow the bulk of the adzuki beans. To plant out, arrange the celtuce, japanese mustards and chinese broccolis about 30cm apart from each other in a loose group (if using pots, put one in each pot) - they will all reach about the same height, and you'll want to harvest from all of them regularly. They will also all persist into winter if cared for properly. If you don't already have a biodiverse garden to help protect them from the Cabbage White butterfly, you might also want to cover this group of plants with a dome of wildlife-safe netting (netting with holes too small to get your finger in protects birds and microbats from being injured) four two-three weeks. Before you cover it though, divide your spring onions into four and plant each one about 15cm away from each of the Brassicas. Then, plant the Warrigal in the middle somewhere to spread out and become a living mulch, and plant the alyssum the same way, off to the side so it's not smothered by the Warrigal's larger leaves and faster growth. Push a few adzuki bean seeds into the soil in between and around this group of plants, avoiding sowing any near the spring onions, then scatter half the carrot seeds anywhere you like between everything else, scruffing the soil around a bit to get them loosely buried by a couple of millimeters. Install the cover, and then sow the rest of the adzuki beans outside of it with the remaining carrot seeds. The Cabbage White butterfly uses both sight and smell to locate her targets: plants in the brassica family like broccoli and mustard that she wants to lay her eggs on. She prefers a mono-crop and can see and smell one easily from the sky - but what you've done here is disguise your goodies with clever companion planting! Your garden will look and smell confusing to passing Cabbage Whites - you will still get a few caterpillars after you take the cover off, but the presence of so many other plants with strong smells, different colours and various leaf shapes growing in between, works to reduce how many eggs are laid over the season.

Watering

The exact amount of water you use after planting isn't as important as being consistent - you can use your finger to check whether the soil has been watered deeply enough, to help you learn how long it takes to reach that point in your garden, on average. It should never be dry under the surface, but its best if it looks dry on the surface just before you water. If its still wet on top, try watering a bit less the next day - but if its dry underneath, you'll know to spend a bit longer on watering in future.

Don't water the garden if there's been more than 5mm of rain that day - but remember that some rainy days aren't wet enough to keep your garden healthy, so you'll need to water anyway. Mulching your garden with dried materials like leaves, bark, straw or shredded paper helps keep the moisture in, so you can water less. Allowing a few weeds to cover the soil with tiny leaves and flowers is healthy too. Too much water will encourage slugs and cause the roots of some plants to rot.

Sun exposure

All of these plants need to be in direct sunlight for at least part of the day - each has its own preferences, but planting them close together in clumps with their companion plants can make the most of space. It's a good idea to imagine how wide and tall each plant will get, and plant them as close together as you can without them shading their neighbours too much in the future.

Seed saving and propagation

Always air-dry your seeds completely before you store them away to prevent mould growth, and keep them in an airtight container like a jar with a lid or a resealable bag.

Pest control

Sometimes, the biggest threat to your garden is bugs! These seedlings are quite big and should be able to resist a few nibbles, but there are some things you can do if your pest problem is out of hand, or if you try starting fresh seeds in the garden bed.

More information about controlling pests is on our "Growing your food" page